Yeah, yeah, agreed, it all varies by personal preference. You ride at night? You ride in low light. Ok go with different EV comp and ISO settings.

So for everyone riding in normal daytime conditions here you! This is on a GoPro 10 so if you have let’s say an 8, your hypersmooth options may vary, but this will get you close.

I also run some windsocks on the microphones to help cut down on high-speed wind noise. I just cut it out of foam, nothing fancy (check out this photo).

Resolution: 4K

Frames per second: 30
I’d like to go to 24fps, but afraid it will be too chunky. High frames rates supposedly make you look like you’re riding a lot slower than you are. That sucks, I ride slow enough as it is. Ha!

Lens: SuperView
Superview also tends to make you look like you’re going slower than you are or so I read somewhere. Plus there’s a bit of the fish eye lens effect. However, lots of folks run Superview+Boost (Hypersmooth) and it looks amazing. Maybe they just go 2x faster than me.

Hypersmooth 4.0: Boost
High has a 10% image crop. If you use Boost, you might want to go with Superview instead of Wide lens since Boost will have a lot of image cropping. Interesting video comparing the two.

Zoom: 1.0

Bit Rate: High
Get a 128GB or higher card and put this on high. It should help getting rid of rough edges in your frames. Also, good to have as HIGH if you do post-processing like in final cut pro.

Shutter: Auto
Cameras have apertures, GoPro does not. So let GoPro auto adjust for moving through trees. If you wan to mess with it, do it somewhere still that has no change in light.

EV Comp: -1.0
Under-expose to capture more detail in bright daylight.

White Balance: 5500K
This brightens a little which helps in high contrast areas. Going up on the Kelvin scale means you are going “cooler”.

ISO Min: 100
When you add in ISO you are adding in fake light which is additional noise. So you want this to be as low as you can get away with, hence 100, while keeping the best image quality possible.

ISO Max: 1600
High ISO settings are useful at night or in extremely low light situations. That is rare in MTB so you should be able to do 1600 max.

Sharpness: Low
Sharpness could cause worse video quality (especially in low light scenarios) because it’s your GoPro trying to automatically sharpen an image. The tradeoff just isn’t worth it as supposedly it’s not that good at sharpening anyway.

Color: Natural
Let GoPro do the work unless you like to edit colors heavily in post-production.

RAW Audio: Off
GoPro will record a separate unfiltered audio track which is good if you want to do a lot of post-editing and match it up with your original footage. Most don’t do this so let GoPro do the work.

Wind: On
I’ve tried it with it OFF and it’s been a mess. Leave it ON because it does help reduce wind noise significantly!